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Autumn region guide

Kyushu in Autumn

Autumn region guide

Okinawa in Autumn

Setting the Scene

A Warmer, Later Autumn

Autumn arrives in Kyushu later than in the northern regions and moves through the island at a leisurely pace that suits its generally warmer climate. The foliage season gets going properly through November, with the northern prefectures seeing colour earlier and the far south holding onto the green of summer well into the month. It is not a region that produces the intense, concentrated foliage displays of Tohoku or the alpine areas of Chubu, but the colour it does offer sits against a landscape of volcanic peaks, river valleys, and rural countryside that gives it a distinct character.

Temperatures through autumn are comfortable across most of the island. October is warm and pleasant, generally sitting in the low to mid twenties across the lowland areas, warm enough that light clothing remains appropriate for much of the day with just a layer added for evenings. November cools steadily and by the end of the month the northern prefectures are cool, sitting in the low to mid teens, while the far south stays noticeably warmer. The season is largely settled and dry across most of Kyushu once the typhoon risk that carries through September has passed, making October in particular one of the most reliable and easy months to travel the island.

Autumn in Kyushu

The volcanic areas of the island take on a particular appeal in autumn. The highland areas around Mount Aso in Kumamoto and the Kirishima range in Kagoshima sit above the lowland warmth and cool more quickly into the season, producing stronger foliage colour against a backdrop of volcanic craters and wide open highland views that few other parts of Japan can offer in the same combination. These areas are worth prioritising in autumn for travellers who want something beyond the conventional temple and castle circuit that defines autumn sightseeing in other regions.

Kyushu stays manageable through autumn without the booking pressure that affects more popular foliage destinations elsewhere. Fukuoka draws consistent visitor numbers as one of Japan's most liveable and well regarded cities, but outside of the urban centres accommodation is available and the island's natural and cultural sites are accessible without much competition. It is a relaxed and rewarding season on an island that handles its tourism well at any time of year.

Beyond the capital

Exploring Kyushu

Autumn in Kyushu is a season of gorges, volcanic highlands, and the particular quality of light that the cooler months bring to a landscape that spends the rest of the year under the full intensity of the southern Japanese sun. The colour change arrives later here than in the northern regions and works through October and into November across the mountain areas of the interior, giving the season a relaxed and unhurried character that suits the pace of travel on an island that rarely feels as crowded as the more visited regions of Honshu.

Nakatsu · Oita

Yabakei Gorge (耶馬渓)

A wooded river gorge inland from Nakatsu, its maples turning through November along walking and cycling routes.

Yabakei (耶馬渓) in Nakatsu City in Oita Prefecture is one of Japan's "Three Great Odd Views" alongside Myogi Mountain in Gunma and Kankakei on Shodoshima, a nationally designated Place of Scenic Beauty, and is also listed by Visit Oita as one of Japan's three great autumn foliage destinations alongside Nikko and Arashiyama. The gorge system spans around 32 kilometres north to south and 36 kilometres east to west across the Yamakuni River basin, formed from the river cutting through welded volcanic tuff from a major eruption near Mount Kuju a million years ago, and was named by the late Edo period historian Rai Sanyo in 1818. It divides into four areas, 本耶馬渓 (Hon-Yabakei), 深耶馬渓 (Shin-Yabakei), 裏耶馬渓 (Ura-Yabakei) and 奥耶馬渓 (Oku-Yabakei), of which Shin-Yabakei consistently produces the most vivid colour against the rock formations. The Hitome Hakkei viewpoint there takes in eight separate rock formations at once including Meoto Iwa, Mount Gunen and Eboshi Iwa, with the surrounding maples and oaks at peak in red, orange and gold from late October to mid November, and soba restaurants and accommodation clustered around the viewpoint. Each autumn the gorge is lit in the evenings from 5pm to 9pm free of charge at 渓石園 (Keisekien) in the Yabakei Dam Memorial Park and along the ひさしもみじ (Hisashi Momiji) maple avenue near Hitome Hakkei, with a 耶馬渓ダムもみじウォーキング (Yabakei Dam Momiji Walking) event at the Yabakei Aqua Park in early November. The Ao no Domon ("Blue Tunnel") in the Hon-Yabakei section is 342 metres long, of which 144 metres is tunnel proper, hand carved through a cliff with a chisel and hammer over 30 years in the 18th century by the Buddhist monk Zenkai to give travellers safe passage where they had previously been forced across a dangerous cliff face above the river. Hitome Hakkei is around 90 minutes by Oita Transport Bus from JR Nakatsu Station, and the 36 kilometre Yabakei Cycling Road built on the former Yabakei railway line runs through the gorge with a 22 kilometre bicycle only section, with bicycles rentable at the Yabakei Cycling Terminal. With the whole area in red and yellow, early November is the time to explore it.

General information
AddressHonyabakeimachi Hida, Nakatsu, Oita 871-0201
AccessFrom Nakatsu Station, a bus into the gorge, around 1 hour, with cycling routes also running from the station
EntryFree, open at all hours
Takachiho · Miyazaki

Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡)

A deep V shaped gorge below columnar cliffs, rowed by rental boat past the Manai Falls, with colour in November.

Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡) in Takachiho Town in northern Miyazaki Prefecture is a 7 kilometre volcanic gorge where the Gokase River has carved through columns of basalt that formed when a pyroclastic flow from Mount Aso cooled rapidly in place around 90,000 years ago, leaving sheer cliff walls of 80 to 100 metres rising on either side of the river. The maples and other deciduous trees growing from the cliff faces turn red and gold from mid November into early December, with the autumn colour reflected in the green water of the river below. The 17 metre Manai Falls dropping into the gorge from a notch in the basalt is the most photographed landmark in the gorge and is listed among Japan's 100 most beautiful waterfalls. Rental rowboats run from the boat dock at the gorge to the foot of the falls for ¥4,100 to ¥5,100 per 30 minute slot (max 3 adults per boat), with online reservation through the Takachiho Tourist Association website required and weekend slots in October and November selling out within minutes of opening. The gorge is a 30 to 40 minute walk from Takachiho Bus Center, which is around 3 hours by direct bus from Kumamoto.

General information
AddressMukoyama, Takachiho, Nishiusuki District, Miyazaki 882-1103
AccessFrom the Takachiho bus centre by local transport or car to the gorge car parks
EntryGorge free, with rental boats charged separately and advance booking recommended
HoursBoat rental roughly 8:30 to 17:00
ParkingPaid car parks nearby, around ¥500 to ¥1,000
Phone+81 982 73 1213
Aso · Kumamoto

Mount Aso Daikanbo Observation Point (阿蘇山 大観峰)

A ridge top lookout over the Aso caldera and its grasslands, the slopes turning through autumn.

Daikanbo (大観峰) is the centrepiece autumn viewpoint of Aso-Kuju National Park, the 936 metre highpoint of the northern caldera rim above Aso City in Kumamoto Prefecture with a 360 degree panorama across one of the largest volcanic calderas in the world (and the largest inhabited one). The grasslands of the caldera floor turn from green to gold and brown across October and November, with the active Nakadake crater's steam plume visible above and the Five Peaks of Aso forming what is said to be the silhouette of a sleeping Buddha across the caldera (Mount Nekodake as the head, Nakadake as the smoking belly button). Late autumn mornings give the best chance of the year for the unkai (sea of clouds) phenomenon, when low clouds settle inside the caldera and the peaks float above the cloud layer. The caldera formed from massive eruptions over 90,000 years ago, with Aso Shrine on the floor of the caldera over 2,000 years old and dedicated to the deity believed to have drained the original caldera lake. Daikanbo is a 10 minute walk from free parking along the Milk Road, and from JR Aso Station the Sanko Bus toward Tsuetate runs to the Daikanbo-iriguchi stop in 35 minutes for ¥550.

General information
AddressYamada, Aso, Kumamoto 869-2313
AccessFrom Aso Station by car or taxi to the Daikanbo car park, then a short walk to the lookout
EntryFree, open at all hours
Phone+81 967 34 1600
Unzen · Nagasaki

Mount Unzen Nita Pass (雲仙岳 仁田峠)

A mountain pass on the Shimabara Peninsula, its ropeway rising over slopes that turn in late October and November.

Mount Unzen on the Shimabara Peninsula in Nagasaki Prefecture is an active volcanic complex made up of around eight peaks, with the central Fugendake erupting 1990 to 1995 in one of the most destructive Japanese volcanic events of the late 20th century and producing the new Mount Heisei-Shinzan lava dome that today stands as the highest point on the massif. Nita Pass (仁田峠) at 1,080 metres on the flank of the volcano is the standard autumn viewpoint, with the maples and dōdan azaleas on the slopes designated a National Natural Monument as the Fugendake Autumn Foliage Forest and turning red and gold from late October into mid November. The 3 minute Unzen Ropeway runs from Nita Pass up to Mount Myokendake Station and a 5 minute walk leads to the Myokendake summit observatory at 1,300 metres, with views across the Ariake Sea, Amakusa Islands and (on clear days) Mount Aso visible to the northeast. The Unzen Onsen hot spring town on the lower flank of the volcano is the standard overnight base, with hot spring "hells" venting steam from the ground around the town. From JR Isahaya Station, Shimatetsu Bus runs to Unzen in around an hour with a 15 minute taxi from there to Nita Pass.

General information
AddressObamacho Unzen, Unzen, Nagasaki 854-0621
AccessFrom Isahaya Station by bus to Unzen, then the toll road to the Nita Pass
EntryNita Pass toll road from ¥100, with the ropeway to Myokendake charged separately
HoursRoughly 8:00 to 17:00
Phone+81 957 73 3688
Autumn moments

Experiences in Kyushu

These are the autumn experiences and events worth building an autumn visit around:

Prefecture map

Seasonal culture

Food in Kyushu

Autumn in Kyushu is one of the more comfortable and rewarding seasons to eat through the island. The heat and humidity of summer retreats through September and the cooler, settled conditions of October and November make moving around and eating well easy. The island's agricultural areas bring in their harvest, the coastal waters deliver key seasonal catches, and a few ingredients that are specific to Kyushu's regional food identity come into their peak through the season.

戻り鰹 (Modori Katsuo)

Returning bonito

The autumn run past Kagoshima, and Makurazaki, the port that turns it into katsuobushi.

Autumn katsuo

戻り鰹 (Modori Katsuo) passes back down the Pacific side of Kyushu between September and November, fat from a summer feeding in northern waters, and Kyushu's relationship with the fish is different from Kochi's. Kochi sears it and eats it. Kagoshima dries it. 枕崎 (Makurazaki) on the southern tip of the Satsuma peninsula is one of the two towns that supply most of Japan's 鰹節 (katsuobushi), the dried and smoked bonito that dashi is made from, and the process there takes months. The fish is boiled, boned, smoked over oak for weeks until it is hard enough to ring when struck, then in the case of 本枯節 (honkarebushi) left to grow a mould that pulls the last of the moisture out. You can watch it being shaved to paper thinness in the shops in town. The fresh autumn fish is eaten as sashimi and tataki as well, but the dried version is what the region is for.

さつまいも (Satsumaimo)

Sweet potato

Kagoshima's autumn crop, the Anno-imo of Tanegashima, and the shochu the rest of it becomes.

Roasted in autumn

Sweet potato is Kagoshima's crop before it is anyone else's, grown in the volcanic ash soil of the south where the drainage suits it, and the prefecture is the largest producer in the country. Two things separate it from the Kanto harvest. The first is 安納芋 (Anno Imo), a variety from 種子島 (Tanegashima) that is wetter and sweeter than mainland sweet potatoes and goes almost custardy when roasted, cured for weeks after digging before it is sold. The second is that most of the crop is not eaten at all. It is distilled into 芋焼酎 (Imo Shochu), and autumn is when the new season spirit appears, unfiltered and cloudy, sold as 新焼酎 (shin shochu) from the distilleries across the prefecture. Kanto roasts its sweet potatoes and sells them from a van. Kagoshima ferments most of them and drinks the result.

かぼす (Kabosu)

Kabosu

Oita's green citrus, squeezed over everything on the table from the first autumn fish onwards.

Oita kabosu, squeezed fresh

かぼす (Kabosu) is a green citrus the size of a golf ball, and Oita grows 97 percent of the national crop, around 4,430 tonnes a year. The trees flower in May and the fruit takes roughly a hundred days to come good, so picking opens in early August and runs through autumn, with the fully ripened yellow fruit arriving later in the year. It is not eaten. It is squeezed, over grilled fish, into ponzu, over nabe, into shochu, and in Oita it arrives on the table as a matter of course in the way a lemon wedge does elsewhere, cut in half rather than in wedges. The pairing to seek out is kabosu over autumn 関さば (Saba) or grilled saury, where the sharp green acidity does the work that no bottled sauce manages. The fruit also carries a Ministry of Agriculture Geographical Indication.

五島うどん (Goto Udon)

Goto udon

Hand stretched camellia oil noodles, boiled at the table and dipped in flying fish broth.

Jigokudaki style

五島うどん (Goto Udon) is the hand stretched noodle of the 五島列島 (Goto Islands), made with camellia oil, which gives it a smoother surface and a firmer bite than most. It is eaten in the じごく炊き (Jigokudaki) style, cooked in a pot of boiling water at the table and dipped into あごだし (ago dashi), a broth made from flying fish specific to the islands. October and November are quiet months on the islands, so it is an easy time to sit down to a pot at the port without a queue.

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