Hokkaido in Summer

Hokuryu in the Sorachi region has made the sunflower its emblem, and the 北竜町ひまわりの里 (Hokuryu Sunflower Village) is where the town plants it on the largest scale, with around two million sunflowers of some 18 varieties covering a 23 hectare slope. The fields come into bloom from mid July and hold their colour until late August, and the Sunflower Festival runs through the peak from late July to the middle of August with food stalls and events on the site. The best way to take in the size of it is from the viewing deck at the top of the hill, where the rows of yellow run all the way down to the tree line, but the paths through the fields put you right in among the flowers, some of them taller than the people walking past. There is also a sunflower maze and a small tour train that loops through the fields during the season. Entry to the fields is free, which makes it an easy stop to add to a drive between Sapporo and Asahikawa, and it is a sight that only exists in summer.

Summer is the season when the alpine environment of Asahidake is most accessible. Asahidake is Hokkaido's highest peak at 2,291 metres, and the ropeway lifts visitors from the onsen village to Sugatami Station at 1,600 metres, which opens the highland plateau to anyone regardless of fitness level, and the summer wildflowers that bloom across the volcanic terrain through July and August like チングルマ (Chinguruma), エゾコザクラ (Ezo Kozakura), and a range of other alpine species, are found nowhere else at this altitude in Hokkaido and are unique to the summer season before the early autumn foliage comes around. Hiking trails from the upper ropeway station lead across the plateau and toward the summit for those equipped for mountain walking, and the views from the upper slopes on a clear summer day reach across Daisetsuzan, the largest national park in Japan by area, taking in volcanic peaks, highland wetlands and forests that are as remote and extraordinary as any in the country.

日本海オロロンライン (Japan Sea Orolon Line) is the name for about 380km of coast road from 小樽 (Otaru) to 稚内 (Wakkanai), up Routes 231 and 232 and then 道道106号 (Road 106). Summer is the easiest time to drive it. The stretch most people come for is Road 106 north of the 天塩川 (Teshio River) mouth, which crosses the サロベツ原野 (Sarobetsu plain) inside Rishiri Rebun Sarobetsu National Park. The road runs straight for over 20km with no power poles or wires in sight, the sea on one side and the cone of 利尻富士 (Rishiri Fuji) offshore, with Rebun beyond it on a clear day. At 幌延 (Horonobe) the 28 turbines of the オトンルイ (Otonrui) wind farm stand in a 3.1km line beside the road. At the northern end, drive on from Wakkanai to 宗谷岬 (Cape Soya), Japan's northernmost point, about 40 minutes by car from Wakkanai Station. Sakhalin is about 43km away and shows on the horizon on clear days.

礼文島 (Rebun Island) sits in the Sea of Japan off the northern tip of Hokkaido and is known as the island of flowers, because the cold northern climate lets around 300 alpine species bloom right down at sea level. The season runs from late May to August, with several flowers that grow nowhere else in Japan. The レブンアツモリソウ (Rebun atsumori-so), a pale yellow orchid found only on this island, flowers from late May to mid June, the yellow レブンキンバイソウ (Rebun kinbai-so) carpets Kinbai Valley from mid June to mid July, and the レブンウスユキソウ (Rebun edelweiss), the town flower, lasts from June into August. The best way to see it all is on foot. The Momoiwa Observation Course takes around three hours over grassy ridges with views of the peach shaped 桃岩 (Momoiwa) rock and of Mount Rishiri across the strait, and the longer Cape Tour Course follows the west coast for 12.4 km from Cape Sukoton past Cape Gorota. Ferries from Wakkanai reach Kafuka Port in around two hours, so most people stay at least one night, and the island pairs naturally with Rishiri next door.

Hokkaido offers excellent conditions for corn, because the long daylight hours and the wide temperature swing between day and night are what build the exceptional sweetness it has. Seeing freshly picked corn sold at roadside stalls and in stores across the island is something that becomes quite common during this window. Now, if you come across the white variety known as Pure White, try it without hesitation as the sugar content is extraordinary. Locals say it is sweet enough to eat raw, and they are not exaggerating. Corn also finds its way into Hokkaido's butter corn ramen known as バターコーンラーメン (Bata Kon Ramen), where sweet summer corn is piled onto a rich miso broth alongside a generous pat of butter that melts into the soup as you eat. It is one of the dishes the island is identified with, and summer is when to eat it, because the corn is at its peak.

Yubari King melon is sold as a gift fruit at prices that reflect it, and is another of Hokkaido's summer crops. The flesh is extraordinarily sweet and smooth, and premium pairs have been auctioned for prices that seem almost impossible for fruit. You do not need to pay anywhere near that to enjoy it though as this is sold in slices at markets and supermarkets across the island through summer and is absolutely worth trying. If you are moving between cities, Hakodate tends to offer some of the better prices by comparison.

This is another of the crabs that only Hokkaido lands. It is named after Cape Hanasaki in Nemuro on the eastern tip of Hokkaido where it is primarily caught throughout the summer season. It is spikier and more dramatic looking than the other Hokkaido crabs and turns a vivid red when boiled. The flavour is bold and briny with a sweetness that reflects the cold eastern waters it comes from. It is far less well known internationally than Hokkaido's other crabs, but something that locals love to eat, so be sure to have this in the back of your mind when thinking of something to eat here.